Clothes can make you look fat if badly cut, the wrong fabric or poorly sewn and finished.  Cheap, fast fashion is often unsuccessful, the result of which is an ill-fitting garment which unflatteringly bulges or drags in all the wrong places.  Inferior design can critically add pounds to the figure.

When dressing to look your best there are some considerations that need to be adhered to:

• Appropriate design for body shape and height.
• Weight, density, pattern and texture of garment material.
• Attention to finish and precision of garment cut.

Bent Out of Shape

Appropriate design for body shape is the first issue to be considered when selecting a garment.  The following are some examples of the most common body shapes:

• Rectangle shape
• Inverted triangle shape
• Hourglass
• Pear shape
• Apple shape

Certain designs can look splendid on some body shapes and yet have a detrimental impact on others.   Being armed with the knowledge of which category your body shape belongs to is the first step towards savvy dressing.

If not immediately obvious which body descriptor an individual belongs to, measurements should be taken using a cloth tape.  This task is easier if assisted, especially for shoulders and back but if this is not possible a mirror and some dexterity will have to suffice.  Wrap the tape around the widest point to take a measurement and hold the tape tautly not tightly.  Take careful note of the measurements which will make clear which body shape category you belong to.

The Pear

This figure type is often described as ‘pear’ shaped, whereby the individual has a small waist but a big bum and hips.  Ideally this type of figure should avoid any one piece in clingy jersey or lycra as this will only accentuate any disparity in balance and shape. 

In designs such as a straight dress there are frequently frustrating issues with excess fabric on the waist; excess bulging fabric can be disappointingly obvious where it is too big on the bust and waist but just right on the bum and thighs and alterations, although costly, are inevitable. 

In fact the A-Line, full gore or gathered skirt are three of the most flattering design choices in skirts, so too are full legged trousers teamed with a wide statement belt to cinch in and heighten that great asset: the tiny waist.  

Not since the mid 1980s has the all forgiving paper bag trouser been current but recently they have re-emerged onto the fashion scene and these too can be very flattering for this body shape.  

The Apple

The ‘apple’ shaped figure commonly describes the individual who has a waist which is bigger than the hip.  This figure needs to be careful to lift emphasis towards the shoulders rather than highlighting the central point of their anatomy and this can be done by utilizing color pop blocks in the pattern cut or through clever use of detail stitching.  

Avoiding any embellishments or shiny finishes on the middle part of the body is essential as is being careful about sizing; the ‘apple’ figure looks best in sizing that allows for ease of movement.  Any dragging of buttons, zips or seams across the midsection actually makes the wearer look bigger than they are.  

A double breasted jacket in a well-proportioned length, with a strong shoulder line, in a semi-fitted style can provide support for this figure type.  Layering techniques such as a waistcoat, vest or varying asymmetrical layers benefit by disguising tummy areas. Ideally a garment should support a figure: a garment should be well lined and interfaced, not fold into creases or drag across prominent areas accentuating imperfections.  

The dropped waist top or dress in a loose-fit will detract from the ‘apple’ shape as too will the perennial favorite the empire shaped design.  

The Rectangle

This body shape is one which has no distinguishing curves and in fact the chest, waist and hip measurements are all much the same.  The individual with the rectangular shaped body can experiment imaginatively with different fabric weights, textures and patterns, all of which can help create contrasts in an otherwise uniform figure.

A belt in an obvious color or design will draw the eye to the waist giving the ‘rectangle’ shape definition and has the effect of breaking the overall uniformity.  A full or gored skirt is an excellent choice as is a skirt or dress with obvious pockets that have embellishments such as button detailing.   A wide neck line such as a boat or slash neck will also help detract from any sameness.

Another clever design choice for this shape is emboldening the upper half of the body through shoulder definition by use of color, padding or detailing such as eplets, stitching or cape, a recent royal favorite which in 2019 emerged as a very flattering and sophisticated look.  However, not every occasion calls for a cape unless of course you are Superman or Wonderwoman, so a puff-sleeve, gathered or princess style sleeve will help create a similar effect or illusion.

Inverted Triangle 

This body shape tends to have a top heavy look such as wide shoulders, large bust or chest with narrow hips. The inverted triangle will benefit from enhancing or bringing more attention to the lower half of the body by creating volume or using fabric textures to give the illusion of symmetry and balance.  

The right cut or sensitive attention to placement of color contrast can create the illusion of balance in an otherwise top heavy shape.  Using color to create contrast is often referred to as color-blocking, employed prolifically in the 1980s by the legendary French designer Claude Montana, and deployed effectively in the fall of 2013, in Victoria Beckham’s ready to wear collection.

Clever use of stitching or fabric printing, whereby optical illusions such as the ‘Herring illusion’ or ‘Muller-Lyer line’ being deployed, can successfully alter the viewer’s perception and help establish an overall balance by tricking the eye. 

The Hourglass

This may well be the most enviable figure to have, well at least that was the case in the 1940s, the body fat is evenly distributed on both the upper and lower parts of the frame.  The waist is petite and visible and an overall balance is achieved.  

The wrap dress such as Diane Von Furstenberg’s famous and iconic jersey silk wrap looks simply stunning on this figure as does the like of a Pucci jersey famed for its psychedelic prints and favored by Marilyn Monroe for its ability to hug and cling in all the right areas.  Issa is another designer who makes playful use of jersey’s characteristic drape and cling which adorn and highlight curves, creating a goddess like physique.  

The hourglass should make the most of that well defined waist and accentuate it with a belt, failure to enhance or highlight this asset could result in square or block like appearance, further definition can be achieved by wearing volume below the waist.

Accentuate the curve by wearing a V-neck, plunge neck or boat neck, however, a scoop neck will only make the bust look heavy and therefore best avoided.  Bring attention to the shoulders and wear a gathered, full or puff sleeve.  Jackets should be single breasted and nipped in by darts or by accessorizing with a narrow belt which will draw the eye to the center and highlight that petite waist.

Print it Like You Mean it!

Recently developed digital cloth printing techniques have the capacity to shape and contour particular areas of the body in order to enhance individual appearance, and can accomplish very flattering sculpting results.  Manipulation of optical illusion through the application of screen printing has assisted designers in perfecting the appearance of the human body.  

The fashion genius Jean Paul Gaultier was one of the first designers to use illusion print on mesh netting, his 1995 fall collection highlighted the benefits of printing fantasy tattoos and utilized contour shading in the most flattering way, as did Temperley, in the fall of 2013, in their knitted graphic, Egyptian themed inspiration: the ‘Sphinx’.  Balmain, the French fashion house, also successfully manipulates impressions of the body through graphic print and tattoo illusion as well as utilizing more traditional embroidery details to create a perfect silhouette.

Certain fabrics do not flatter an ample figure, specifically thick or bulky fabrics such as boucle, and some robust tweeds, as the dense texture and thickness of the cloth can add pounds, as too can stiff unmalleable fabrics such as corduroy or some denims.

Satin materials or fabrics that have a shiny finish or embellishments should never be worn on an area that the wearer wishes to camouflage.  Wearing horizontal stripes, tartan or check patterns on the lower half of the body is inadvisable for ‘pear’ or ‘apple’  shaped figures.

It is All in The Cut.

A skillfully cut garment, a fundamental element of successful design, will have a sharpness to it which will easily identify it as being a well-tailored designer piece.

According to Hunter and Fan every element of garment design ‘contributes towards the visual perception and psychological comfort of the garment.  Principles of illusion can be utilized in garment design to flatter the figure of the wearer (Davis, 1996).

Pattern features that are cleverly used can trick the eye.  Design sections in a garment, such as a central panel block in a shaded, darker or color pop of contrasting fabric, have the effect of creating the illusion of a narrower and slimmer frame. 

In 2012 the ‘Panel dress’ made a serious impact on the fashion scene and The Guardian hailed it as ‘…the best to slip into and instantly look slimmer.’  In fact the Victoria Beckham fall collection of 2013 makes intelligent use of various cleverly cut designs to flatter the body: ‘Look 13’ broadens a narrow shoulder: ‘Look 14’ gives emphasis to the core detracting from any issues with heavy thighs or bum: ‘Look 21’ and ‘23’ make use of a color pop triangle helping to balance a top heavy frame.  

A clever cut can lend movement, when more unmalleable fabrics are selected for their particular characteristics, pattern sections can be cut into a design in order to give a garment more flexibility in areas where movement is required.

The bias cut, a popular design choice of the twenties and thirties, is capable of creating the illusion of elongation, adding length to the torso.  However, to the same ends, a badly cut bias piece will warp the figure and do a disservice to the wearer.  

Garments that are lined, interfaced and or bound, perhaps even gently padded will work for and support the body.  The correct fit will lift the figure and ensure that fabrics do not bulge or drag.  

A hand made or courtier piece that is lined, supported by facings, including weighted hems, which are particularly beneficial in thick heavy fabrics, and cleverly lifted and padded where needed will give any figure support and shape.   

Dress to Suit Yourself

Maintaining a positive mental attitude about body image can be challenging when we are constantly being bombarded by advertisements of the so-called ‘perfect’ body that have undoubtedly been retouched to impress.  As individuals we each have our own ideals of perfection which are just as valid as those upheld on any catwalk or glossy cover.   By learning how to present our best image to the public gaze we strengthen our confidence and enhance our value and appreciation for ourselves and as a consequence inspire respect from others.  

It is important to admit that not every design choice will flatter our figure despite how popular, fashionable or current it may be.  Dressing to suit your body shape is a skill and takes practice.  It can be fun experimenting with fashion but to get an accurate understanding of what best suits your figure, it is a good idea to put effort into researching the most flattering styles.  

Gather pictures of yourself in different outfits, study them objectively and do not be afraid to ask for help from someone you trust.  Create a board dedicated to your image, assess different styles, grade the looks based on the overall impression and appropriateness.

All this probably sounds a little narcissistic but will only be necessary until the process of finding the most complimentary look becomes more familiar.  The more you practice the more confident and competent you become.  It is important to remember to celebrate the joy of looking the very best you can each and every day!

If you enjoyed this, don’t miss ‘Do Clothes Make You Happy? (This will surprise you)’  

Clothes make a man because they have the ability to improve his appearance,  image and even credentials.  The right clothes can enhance a man’s positivity and confidence, serve as a protection, disguise, or even inspiration. Looking magnificent harnesses feelings of achievement that inspire success. 

Invest In The Man You Want To Be

One of the great joys in life is shopping but I am not entirely sure most men would agree.  However, I really believe there is not a man alive who does not love how he looks in new, well chosen clothes.  Therefore, in order to look the part, a certain amount of retail exposure is required but is it really necessary to go to all the trouble of trying things on and searching through rails of garments?

Dressing well is a skill which can be acquired but this takes an investment of time, energy and a certain amount of enthusiasm. In order to hone this skill, the apprentice sartorial specialist must be willing to learn, explore and most importantly make the odd fashion faux pas, as this is part of the initiation into the fraternity of style.

This hard work and dedication is always rewarded and the earlier experimentation begins, the better; some individuals can take a long time to learn about their particular style whereas others take to dressing like a fish to water. 

A really good piece of advice is to take some shots of yourself in the various designs and looks that you feel attracted to.  Lay these shots out alongside each other and make comparisons, be objective and honest in your criticism, let yourself be informed and the result will be a really good beginning of your own personal style. 

Do not be afraid to experiment, if you like it and it feels right then go for it.  Are you thinking of Cary Grant in his fine silk cashmere sweater, baggy chinos held together with a loosely rolled silk scarf, in place of a traditional leather belt.  Do you remember how elegantly he rocked those moccasins without wearing any socks?  Who would have said that this look would work and yet it does, it has such an elegant refined quality worth emulating. 

All The World’s A Stage

According to Mr William Shakespeare: ‘the apparel oft proclaims the man’, in fact our contemporary notion, of a man’s identity being defined by what he wears, is not a new one.  During the 16th century what you wore was such a potent indication of your wealth and social status that it was considered an essential element in defining a person’s class.

Clothes are vastly more affordable today but what a person decides to wear does nevertheless reveal a lot about their personality and can, whether it be for the good or ill, define an individual.  Clearly image can be enhanced or damaged so readily by what we wear that it is worth taking the time to consider this before we allow ourselves to be characterized.

The way we dress speaks volumes to the world; we can say we feel a little glum today as we shuffle along in our baggy jeans and hoodie or on the other hand present an energetic vibrant front in our fresh muscle bound T and slim-fit blues or reveal a dynamic originality by reaching for a smooth supple leather biker jacket, soft cashmere neck scarf, and rolled up chinos.  

The savvy dresser may simply turn to the polished elegance which can only be found in a finely tailored suit because in the immortal words of ZZ Top we are all ‘…crazy ‘bout a sharp-dressed man’.  When you put an effort into your appearance the world treats you differently;  you are given more respect and dignity which bodes well for thinking carefully about how you present yourself.  Dressing well and creating an image which you feel comfortably defines your individuality becomes easier with practice, it is liberating, not to mention useful and is definitely worth capitalizing on.

Doors Open Up For A Sharp Dressed Man

Everybody wants to be seen talking to the best dressed guy on the street, in the room or at a nightclub.  This is the man who has an air of success and distinction, the one whom we all agree is going places or has perhaps already arrived.  The key to success involves maintaining this façade which requires dedication and commitment.  

The image once contrived is like a mask and should never be let slip as it forms a public perception of the individual and deviation may induce suggestions of doubt.  

All this sounds a little taxing and the difficulty is of course sustaining motivation, however, there are many advantages to maintaining this public face: trust, recognition, enhanced reputation, respect and inclusion.   Once the individual begins on this path of identification with image it becomes clear that large amounts of discipline and dedication are required in the initial stages.  After a period of time it all becomes much easier as habits and routines form. 

Soon you become aware of the benefits of dressing in a distinctive style and begin to appreciate the knowledge of knowing what to wear and how to wear it, at this point you have ownership of your persona and can take control of how others perceive you.  

Devoted To The Image

The suit, though not the solution to every occasion, is traditionally a firm favorite when one wants to make a serious impact.  Conspicuous and yet subtle, it is no coincidence that the suit became firmly associated with success; it provided a façade behind which true identity is hidden and its uniformity assured its acceptance and confirmed it as a shape synonymous with success.   

In his self help guide Dress for Success, John T MolloRhonda Byrne’s The Secret (links to Amazon.com) where it is recommended you imagine your best future, whether that be sitting behind the wheel of a Ferrari or sitting on your terrace in Monaco.  

Manifesting a new reality using visualization can truly support the individual in search of an identity with which to connect and embrace.  Creating a mood board using images, colors and styles which are inspiring can really help to clarify and hone individual style by anchoring it to particular looks the wearer finds attractive.

It Is All In The Eye

Most of us are heavily influenced by the visual and it is said that we make up our mind about an individual in the first three seconds of meeting them.  

Clothing, be it a simple, relaxed, finely knit sweater, cleverly emblazoned sweatshirt or conservative suit, can act as a vehicle of self promotion for the wearer, nonetheless, one point remains clear in all research conclusions; quality counts.  In other words the great general public are perfectly capable of distinguishing between a refined quality item of clothing and a mass-produced, off-the-rack garment and will evaluate the wearer based on what they perceive them to be wearing.

In research, conducted by Professor Pine, the general public were asked for their instant response to two separate images of a man, whose face was hidden.  It became clear that although the man’s face was not shown and the suits were almost identical, the public could determine which image they felt made the greatest impression: the tailored suit in preference to the ready-made suit was the outright choice.  The findings of the test confirmed for Professor Pine ‘…that people are influenced by subtle features, such as the cut of a suit, which has a powerful impact on judgements of personality and professional status.’

Ask yourself why any diplomat, leader or businessman arrives wearing a suit for briefings, interviews and meetings.  These leaders have found that a conservative, invariably navy, well tailored suit speaks to the public and confirms for them that their trust is well placed and they, in being entrusted with the mantle of responsibility, are anxious to fulfill expectations.  The suit has the capacity of being able to communicate messages of authenticity, competence and dependability and it ensures that the wearer presents every appearance of being able to execute their role successfully.

The individual and in this case the man, who does not carefully consider the image he projects to the world is doing himself a disservice.  Although admittedly all this may sound superficial, visual communication is commonly used in the animal kingdom, to ward off intruders and of course to impress, and we human animals share the same instincts, albeit in bespoke suits! 

What is it about clothes that makes us happy?  Could this feeling of satisfaction really come from simply wearing colors or patterns that lift our mood or could it be attributed to the ease of cut or design that makes our day that bit more comfortable or is it that we find a psychological support from our clothes that cannot be derived from anywhere else?  Can the design of clothing empower or even create a facade or protective armor behind which we can hide the real fragile self?

Clothes make you happy because they enable the wearer to assume an identity to portray to the world; dressing can be a form of escapism and what we wear may or may not be a true reflection of how we feel or who we are but clothing is a form of protection in every sense of the word.  

Who Do You Want To Be Today?

Do you remember your dressing up box when you were a child?  What fun assuming a different identity at will; this morning a nurse, this afternoon a teacher and tomorrow I will be a shopkeeper.  What dynamic lives we led as children but somewhere along the way that fun, spontaneity and variety is replaced by the relentless repetition of mundane routine and responsibility.  There remains, however, one all embracing release from this imprisonment of adult sobriety; clothing and color open the doors to imagination and escape.   

Even if you must wear a uniform or are restricted by company rules while you are at work, you can still find a form of self expression through your clothing, be it your underwear, travelling to work clothes or how you decide to dress in your free time.  Dressing is a form of escapism and empowerment which we can use to our advantage.  

Science Supports The Theory

Experts in the field of psychological science have conducted studies on how what  individuals wear impacts on their attitude and performance.  In their now famous lab coat experiment of 2012 Adams and Galinsky studied the influence that the exact same white lab coat had on the individual and their attentiveness.   

In one part of the test individuals were divided into three groups: one group were given what they were told was a doctor’s coat to wear, the second group were given what they were told was an artist’s painting coat and the third group were told to simply look at a white doctor’s coat lying on a table in front of them.  

The test revealed markedly different results; those who wore what they understood were doctor’s coats were more observant and did better than those who believed they were wearing painter’s coats or indeed those simply looking at the doctor’s coat on the table.  It seems that the first group who wore what they understood to be doctor’s coats were influenced by associations they made with that garment.   

The study inspired Adams and Galinky to first coin the term ‘enclothing cognition’ which describes the effect and impact that clothes have on the wearer’s emotional and intellectual activity.  

Another study by Professor Karen Pine concluded that the color and clothing design you wear on a specific day is a reflection of your mood and can in turn not only influence how you are perceived by others but also affect your behavior and as a consequence impact on personal happiness.  

Thus it appears that scientific studies concur with the fact that clothing can exact a mental and behavioral persuasiveness on the wearer and consequently this suggests that the wearer’s frame of mind can be modified by their choice of clothing.  

It Is Just Common Sense

These studies while useful and supportive to the theory that clothes make us happy do not really present any fundamentally new concepts and in fact a lot of this is just common sense which our predecessors were fully in agreement with.

Who hasn’t heard the expression: ‘ get your glad rags on!’ or the old proverb: ‘fine feathers make fine birds’.  In fact I remember seeing magazines in the 1980s regularly emblazoned with the logo: ‘Dress for Success’, as inspired by John T Molloy’s book of the same name.  In the early 80s Molloy’s subsequent ‘77 edition, which gave advice to women, formed part of the inspiration which assisted women in the strategy of dressing for business.

Dressing Like You Mean It

It was during the eighties, a decade of legendary shoulders, and heroic earrings, echoing the rotund robustness of Captain America’s shield that women began to explore a new found identity and independence which brought a freedom and feeling of self-worth that inspired feelings of importance and value. 

Women learnt to compete in a previously male dominated environment supported by the power suit, giving them the attitude and courage required to succeed in business.  Those shoulders gave one the feeling of being bigger, more powerful and capable of taking on the world.  Women began to visualize success and climbing the corporate ladder became a reality for the well suited career woman.

Identification and Visualization

When inhabiting a character, actors come to rely on and appreciate the value of props and in reality that is exactly what clothes are, a type of prop or support for the actor.  The actor’s inspiration for their character is often informed and enlightened by the costume department’s choice of clothing.  

Norma Jeane Baker revealed that she created her own alter ego the iconic siren Marilyn Monroe and when she removed the guise she could quite literally melt into a crowd without fear of recognition.  

The glamorous facade that she created inspired that walk and breathy speech that became so synonymous with the actress that eventually her true identity became almost indiscernible.  

This ability to take on a new identity simply by wearing clothing which inspires looks of admiration and desire exemplifies the power of clothing in creating a brand new unique external appearance.  The power to manipulate how people judge or perceive is in the wearer’s control as is the mantle of happiness associated with having that autonomy and power..

Color Lights The Way

We all have our color preferences; some people like to dress in conservative shades of navy, black or beige and others throw themselves into wild colorful jazzy patterns which although lively are not always flattering.

Color analysis, advice and guidance proved to be big business in the 80s and early 90s when it reached its zenith; I remember feeling quite sorry for those women who came armed with cards of colors limiting them to specific shades, confiding that they were ‘a light spring’ or ‘a warm spring’ and watching their faces drop in disappointment when the jacket they fell in love with just was not the exact shade of blue they were permitted to wear.  

Personal color analysis is not an exact science and although perhaps a useful way to encourage an individual to coordinate their wardrobe, it is rather restrictive.   By limiting the wearer to certain shades, the benefits of the joy, spontaneity and self expression associated with allowing oneself to be enveloped by a particularly uncharacteristic acidic shade of yellow or vibrant orange is lost.  There is no point in wearing the exact color that matches your skin tone if you are miserable doing so.

Chromotherapy or color therapy, a practice from antiquity, addresses and treats mental or physical illness and is accepted as a complementary medicine.  It is an area within which there is still a lot of study to be done but RLT or red light therapy has been accepted as a treatment for helping to rejuvenate the skin. 

Many in the cosmetic industry now extol the benefits of light therapy; in particular those of yellow light therapy which increases wound healing and also with blue light therapy which targets acne causing bacteria.  

The benefits of the natural world clothed in harmonious shades and hues is undisputed and all of us have at one stage or another found ourselves wandering along a leafy path feeling a quiet calm descend over us as we are enveloped in green.   Color can therefore as we have experienced guide your mood in a positive direction.

Put On The Person You Want To Be Today

In order to feel a greater sense of worth and well being an individual should dress for success or for a successful outcome as dressing in uninspiring clothing and colors can only produce negative results.

The right clothes enfold your body in the arms of comfort, enhance your mood and confidence.   If you feel good about how you look and what you are wearing you can deal with any event throughout the day.

When you wake up tomorrow, go to your wardrobe and pull out that outfit you are keeping for best or better days because that is today!  Happiness is a feeling you deserve right now, so create it for yourself by wearing that outfit that will take you there.

If as they say you are what you eat then YOU can be what you wear!  

Vintage clothes are expensive as they are made from superior quality, natural fabrics, well cut and tailored to a finish which is incomparable to today’s standard; vintage items are neither numerous in availability or editions which means that each vintage piece is individual and irreplaceable.  

Their hand me downs seemed magically imbued with this exoticism.  Do you remember being heroically determined to channel this energy and become what you thought they were?  That is one of the key attributes of vintage; you imagine that you are channeling another energy from a time or individual which can give you a type of confidence that you just do not get from fast high street fashion.  

Superior Standards

One of the key characteristics of a classic is quality; it is the reason why so many become hooked on wearing vintage in the first place.  Have you ever noticed how a vintage pattern, whether brocade, check, gingham, floral or abstract print, is carefully matched at seams whereas a modern high street piece just makes do with whatever way the pattern comes together as it is too costly and time consuming to ensure the symmetry.  

In fact the only comparable adherence to this previously fundamental design principle can be seen in contemporary high end designers who playfully create new visions using fabric pattern in their design.  If you want quality and feel strongly about the integrity of a design then vintage offers a more affordable alternative. 

Longevity

In the past garments were made to last and more durable than today’s modern equivalents.  Less disposable income meant that clothes were an investment and needed to last.  Better quality fabrics and adherence to stringent quality control ensured that the buyer’s investment would last a lifetime.  

Clothing such as skirts, dresses and suits were fully lined and even trousers were either treated to a full or half lining meaning that the garment could be relined as it wore.   Seam allowances were generous and left enough room for the garment to expand with the wearer irrespective of price point.  

Today fashionistas are waking up to the benefits of vintage clothing and its unspoken guarantee of superior quality and finish which is timeless.  Demand in the vintage fashion market reflects a realization that fast disposable fashion is no longer acceptable and investments are being made now before vintage sources run dry.  As demand increases so too do prices, making it all the more urgent to get hunting and sourcing that investment piece.

Original and Unique

Each vintage item is individual, irreplaceable and original as it is period you will not see it on the high street, perhaps mirrored in an attempt to copy but the overall quality of vintage always surpasses fast fashion and wins out in the end.  

Purveyors of vintage are invariably discerning individuals and are respectful and aware of the uniqueness of an item and will price match it accordingly.  Therefore vintage bargains as were are becoming increasingly rarer but the quality of the items still bears out and makes the investment worthwhile. 

Holding Value 

The big names such as Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel and Hermes not only hold their value as investment pieces but actually in many cases increase in such if the item is well maintained and preserved.  Condition is a very important factor as is the original packaging of items such as boxes or cloth bags as in the case of small leathers or hangers and suit/dress bags in the case of clothing.  

On one of my visits to a local thrift shop I waded through a huge box of bags and to my delight I unearthed a vintage 80s Gucci Hobo bag for 50cent, there was no damage or obvious wear to the piece and although I did not have the original cloth bag and it was missing a bolt cap from the handle which I replaced, I eventually sold it for 265e. 

High-end fashion is guaranteed to hold value but this rule applies to the more well known names and despite the fact that other contemporary houses offer the same quality, they may be more challenging to sell as they are a lower profile.  

Mid Range Investment

The vintage item does not need to originate from a big house name, it may well be an item that has been made popular or become iconic as a consequence of some celebrity; think Twiggy and the 60s shift dress; Farrah Fawcett and her 70s bell bottom Levis and cropped sweater; Bianca Jagger in her classic white double breasted trouser suit; the 80s Princess and her Pussybow blouse and not forgetting the power of Dynasty and those emancipated shoulders and enormous reflective buttons. 

High Street Investment

Vintage high street fashion is essentially low-cost vintage clothes which are rare to find and getting rarer.  The 1970s was the first decade in the history of fashion which offered off the peg clothes in a wider range at an affordable price to buyers across the age spectrum and that is why so much of it is still available to buy in thrift stores today. 

Up until recently the 70s were not considered the most successful fashion decade but if you like the look there is a lot to choose from.  Care is advised however, as those over the age of 30 will find carrying off this high street retro look very challenging; being at the lower end of the scale when it comes to quality 70s high street is very unforgiving and you quite literally get what you pay for. 

Despite being less costly as a vintage investment, Laura Ashley frilled Prairie Maxi dresses are a good investment as are the 70s cotton crochet dresses and suits which sell in excess of 100e.

Future Vintage Fashion Investments

When making a purchase one should always buy with the heart but also consider if the item would be a likely collectable for the future.   Clearly not all of us can afford to invest in iconic brands such as Chanel, Dior, Pucci or Vuitton but there are opportunities to invest:  

• Balmain for H&M
• Missioni for Target
• Kate moss for Topshop

Names that will be highly collectable into the future:

• Alexander McQueen
• Burberry Prorsum
• Balenciaga

Think also about well known figures and their connection or endorsement of a product; Mondi and Escada grew in popularity and status as a consequence of their favor with Princess Diana in the 80s and 90s.  Temperley, LK Bennett and Burberry seem to be among the current favorites of the Duchess of Cambridge which will ensure that certain pieces from these brands will remain particularly popular and as a consequence be investment pieces of the future.

The luxury brand Maxmara and their iconic ‘Madame’ coat is a definite investment piece; I bought one of these new in 1992, it cost me about 650e at the time and if I were to sell it today it would command a price of at least 1,200e in today’s vintage market but remember condition is everything. 

Bag it!

Most vintage aficionados are conscious of the fact that handbags from the top fashion houses are worth their weight in gold.   This is particularly true of Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel and Gucci.  There are other less well-known brands that have a strong resale value such a Rodo, Bally or TODs whose classic D-bag in medium which has just been rereleased S/S 2021, selling for 2,150.00stg but can currently be picked up online in its vintage edition for a fraction of the cost and is only likely to appreciate in value.

Belt Up!

If you want to invest in vintage, accessories are an excellent area to focus on, primarily because they really never go out of style and when it comes to investing in the future of your wardrobe, this is where the money will make a return.   

As is so often the case with vintage clothes, very often the brand is an important consideration.  Think Gucci or Bally web belts in a variety of patterns, elasticated and finished with a circular metal interlocking clasp, these are a definite investment for the future as is the Chanel chain belt finished with pearls and interlocking ccs. 

So too is the distinctive Vuitton patterned belt complete with untarnished hardware of  monogram initials or the iconic Hermes hand crafted dual leather strap and characteristic ‘H’.

Condition is paramount of course and this should be taken into consideration before purchasing.  Leathers, especially belts can suffer from a great deal of wear as they are exposed to close contact with the body and sweat which unfortunately compromises the leather.   Leathers can become brittle if not well stored and metals can become tarnished from too much contact with perfumes.  Care should be taken to protect your investment.

Fur

A nasty word for many but there is plenty of it still around, especially shearlings and sheepskin.  The point is that there is nothing as warm as fur and that is why you still see these items being worn in countries such as Russia and Canada as they offer an insulation which is incomparable.  

If you buy vintage fur you save the item from landfill which is a very positive point for our environment and in not buying or commissioning new pieces you are also helping to protect the animal kingdom.  Alternatively, garments such as trench coats can be lined with fur, benefiting from the advantages of insulation whilst at the same time avoiding the incidental gaze of judgement.

Vintage furs can be quite pricey and on average start from around 150e which means that they are at the higher end of vintage pricing.  When you decide to invest in a piece, keep an open mind and remember that the item should be gently worn and checked carefully for moth holes or hardening of the skin; do not worry too much about the style as this can easily be adjusted or altered.  

An Investment

When you buy a vintage piece you are making a bold statement about who you are, your philosophy, ideals, your vision for the world and you reveal your uniqueness and intelligence as not alone are you not following the fashion herd, but you also recognize the enduring quality and style of vintage whilst single handedly doing your bit to safe the planet too.  The fact that cleverly bought vintage can make a return on an investment makes it an even more attractive prospect.

To wear vintage clothing be a total purist, assume the complete look of the period, include fragrance, hairstyle, cosmetics or bring a vintage piece right up to date with the latest styling and accessories, alternatively realize successful pairing with contemporary high street and vintage high end.

The Purist

I remember in the late 80s in Dublin there was this young woman who caught my and everyone else’s attention. Why did she stand out from the crowd?  

Fashion in the 80s

Imagine a mullet haircut or big perm, thick eyebrows, wide shouldered voluminous unstructured shirts and jackets, big plastic earrings, wide legged gathered or pleated culotte pants, rara skirts, chained crucifixes, or shapeless sweatshirts and pants. 

A dedicated follower of vintage

Against that background picture a slim petite pixie faced purist, sporting the clean sharp lines of a mod bob, complete with heavily defined kohled eyes, false eyelashes, finely plucked eyebrows, dressed in a chic semi-fitted double breasted box jacket and an A-line mini skirt, green opaque honeycomb tights and square low heeled Mary Janes.   Have you got Mary Tyler Moore in your head?

Purity is a commitment

Now this young woman lived up to the 60s mod image that she obviously identified with and she deserves the name purist as she presented her vintage look impeccably right down to the gloves and handbag.  

I often wondered how long it must have taken her to get ready in the morning and how challenging it must have been for her to find new pieces that represented how she felt and still helped her to maintain that retro look that she was so committed to.  

Letting the mask slip

In fact she grew older with this era and a decade later she was still to be seen sporting the 60s mod but it just didn’t seem to work as well on her as she aged, that crisp freshness was missing and I could never work out if she had let her standards slip or if she had grown a little tired of maintaining her purist philosophy towards vintage.

The moral to this story is if you are going to wear vintage then you have to decide how committed you are and if you are going to be able to maintain it.  Nothing looks more gruesome than a half hearted attempt at purist vintage dressing, it just looks jaded.  

The Coordinator

There is of course an alternative way to approach vintage which involves taking a piece, be it a suit, dress, coat or even coat dress and combining it with the latest and most up to date styling; shoes or boots, bag, scarfs, belts, jewelry, complemented by contemporary hairstyles and makeup. 

Thereby bringing the total look right up to date whilst being totally original and unique at the same time.  

Wearing vintage in the 90s

The idea of combining vintage and contemporary is not a new one and was common in the mid 90s.  The fashion world called this look ‘Grunge’, a title I have never liked as it sounds like some unwanted surprise you have to scrape off your shoe upon your return from a walk in a public park.  

Grunge

Actually I remember when ‘Grunge’ hit the catwalks, and was being publicized in all the top fashion magazines; how very disappointed I felt when I made the comparison between it and the clean lines of the mind blowing highly desirable designs from Versace made popular by the ‘fabulous four’: Naomi, Claudia, Helena and Linda. 

Think of the Versace safety pin dress, or the cute little citrus boucle single breasted mini suit, so inspiring and empowering.  What a relief in 1994 when Herve Leger who, along with his iconic Bandage dress, pushed against Grunge and its drippy attempted imitation of the 70s hippy look.

Being a victim of vintage trends

Grunge really did culminate in looking as if the wearer had rolled out of bed and pulled on any old jumble found lying around, what a mess. 

Unless you were a statuesque, long limbed, waif-like creature, you ran the risk of looking as though you were dressed in your big sister’s cast-offs and were feeling so miserable about it that you could not even manage to brush your hair but rather let it fall straggly and unkempt in your eyes.  

Finding the correct combination

In fact there were those who wore the Grunge that actually looked as though they were homeless but on the other hand, other more imaginative dressers found the joy of layering a 20s silk chiffon tea dress over a fine knit ivory sleeveless lycra wolford bodysuit, combining it with stripped or floral leggings and thick soled doc martins or shorts, and invariably topping the whole look off with a pale blue cropped fitted denim jacket and accessorizing with shades and ivory straw baseball cap trimmed to compliment, thus creating a successful pairing between vintage and contemporary.  

Sourcing the look

That was the one real bonus about 90s grunge, there was a lot more early vintage to 

choose from out there and being so readily available it was priced realistically.  Meaning that it was possible to source those twenties and thirties gossamer tea dresses and pair them very successfully with 90s leggings and leather jackets. 

Sadly now it is almost impossible to find vintage from this era in a wearable condition at an affordable price.   

Coordinator par excellence

A successful vintage coordinator will know which eBay seller, thrift shop or online vintage vendor to go to when searching for that unique item that they will work around, combining with contemporary high street pieces to create a look which is unique and invariably affordable. 

Think Laura Ashley’s 70s Prairie dress combined with this season’s hiking boots; the 80s Lady Di high necked frill blouse layered under a  2021 pants suit; Escada’s 90s military boleros and jackets teamed with contemporary jeans or cropped pants. 

The Soloist

This special individual is that fashionable talent that can recognize and utilize quality, whether it is a vintage courtier piece or perhaps one that carries the prestigious label of Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel.  

The skill of the Soloist is to carry off a vintage piece with such aplomb that we mere mortals are left feeling confused and question if it is hot off this season’s couturier catwalks and if so how did we miss such a jewel?

A flair for fashion

The ingenuity of the Soloist is such that they have a natural instinct, a sort of  intuitive timing.  While at one with the mood of a moment, very often they are ahead of the curve and the vintage piece they wear invariably seems to either have distinct parallels with the more visible contemporary versions or are very soon followed by similar styles.  

The correct measure

One of the key attributes of a Soloist is the ability to recognize the moment when less is more and this is where they get their name as they are famed for using one key vintage piece to make a statement.  The impact is heightened by the caliber of the item. 

Success lies in selecting a distinctive yet subtle piece which has the attributes of quality whilst paradoxically at the same time being of such distinct style it is impossible to assign to any particular period.  

Who makes the grade?

If the item is a quality piece any age group has the ability to wear it successfully without it being obviously fashion from another era.   Excellent fabric, cut and finish will assure that the vintage item will be capable of carrying the burden of passing off this look as one of the moment.

Vintage Icons

Think of the quality of a vintage Chanel jacket teamed with a crisp white cotton shirt and jeans or McQueen’s iconic 1995 single breasted swallow jacket worn over a plain turtle neck and fitted skirt in color block of ivory or black; Christian Lacroix’s jewel embellished dresses from the late 80s lend themselves to any age and always command stunned gazes of admiration as have my personal favorite Claude Montana and his edgy silhouette executed in color blocks giving the female form the greatest power and visual impact. 

The Soloist knows that quality will carry you anywhere and enhances the wearer.  

Obviously it may not always be possible for everyone to afford to acquire such famed vintage paragons of fashion, sourcing quality vintage items is a definite skill which requires dedication and contacts, many of whom you stumble across in online quests for vintage apparel. 

Essentially the fewer mediators you involve in sourcing your piece the more affordable it is.  Researching and unearthing less well known fashion peers from an era will bring rewards of uniqueness and timeless style.  

Buy vintage at live or online auction sites -eBay, Etsy or from individuals on Instagram. Charity stores, Markets, house clearance or commission a vintage fashion hunter to source a piece on your behalf.

The advantage of many online sites is that there are usually a variety of pictures and detailed descriptions of each item and therefore you have the surety of making an informed decision about a prospective purchase. 

The Best Online Sites

Some sites such as eBay have sellers who give a complete history of the item which is fascinating in itself and many are estate finds, as they are called in America, and these are usually low cost items because the sellers are often unaware of the true value of their vintage piece.

eBay has a large selection of sellers who are interested in a particular period of fashion history and if you follow them online you will be able to select what you want from that particular era.

Other sellers just love the romance and quality of items from the past, they might sell everything from vintage Mickey Mouse comics to coins and stamps. However, somewhere in between there will be a vintage dress or bag waiting to be snapped up.

The following are some vintage fashion ebay sellers:

• lucyloveslove_vintage
• sgh2274 (Victorian, Edwardian and 40s fashion)
• vintageviking1 (beautiful vintage dresses here)
• jemierose (a mixture of all eras)
• onlinevintageshowroom
• jamiexmas
• applebyvintage

Etsy is another excellent site which I have found to be very user friendly and the vintage pieces here are usually better photographed than on eBay and a little easier to examine online. 

In the past I have found Etsy to be reasonably priced overall and sellers are happy to communicate and open to buyers approaching them for a better price. As with any other online vendor it is very important to read the reviews and feedback of a seller before you take the plunge.

Key Search Vocabulary

Key search words are important when hunting vintage fashion. Buzz words such as retro will bring up predominantly modern cheap imported copies of original styles.

However, using the key word vintage before the items or the period you are hunting will bring up a vast selection of fine quality finds. For example entering key words such as vintage dress, vintage 1940s dress, or entering for example ‘1940s’ in the search box and refining search to ‘clothing’, not forgetting to launch the search as ‘worldwide’ will open a vast array to browse from.

Online Site Bargains

I have found featured charity shops on eBay to be very fruitful. In fact if you keep a close eye on these sites you can source real bargains.

Communication is important when dealing with these sellers. If you see something that you like, get in touch with the shop. These featured charities are only interested in getting the cash in, there is no emotional investment in the item which is good news for the buyer.

Be decisive and strike early in the listing before other hunters pounce on your find and take you into a bidding war, ramping up the price.

In my experience some sellers that list items are badly informed about the true value of an item and often dream up a price which sounds good to them but is in fact excessive or conversely if you are lucky undervalued.

Then there are the listings of job lots which contain predominately vintage items; these can be quite fruitful when it comes to accessories but when it comes to clothes, it is less successful.

Social Media

Instagram is a great location to source those vintage sellers at home and abroad.

It may well be an advantage to you to make contact with these online entrepreneurs to help them get to know your style so they can keep an eye out for finds tailor made for you; It is like having your own free stylist!

This site is especially popular for sourcing high end designer bags which are always a fantastic investment. If you care for your designer bag properly it can end up earning you a return on your investment. It is well worth scouring online vintage clothing and accessories sites for high end brand names such as Gucci, Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Hermes as these always hold their value.

Always ensure that you are confident that your purchase is the genuine article. There are many ways of checking that a designer bag is original:

• serial/date code
• brand monogram/logo and location on bag
• logo embossed stamp on leather and printed quality lining
• metalware quality and branding
• grain and surface of leather which should feel dry, not oily or slippery
• immaculate stitching of equal quantity, no back and forth stitches
• detailed brand catalogues

If you do your research and check customer reviews and an online seller’s reputation, then there is every reason to shop with confidence.

Remember too that when you use PayPal you have extra insurance if the product is not what you were promised.

What to Buy

A Gucci handbag from the early 80s for 50cent, am immaculate Burberry trench coat complete with plaid wool zipped inner lining and silk neck scarf emblazoned with the brand logo, all 12 euro, new Chloe leather T-bar courts a mere 25euro, Temperley silk blouse with tags 1 euro; these are all examples of vintage fashion finds as well as some modern classics from thrift shops.

If you have a good eye, follow your instincts about the piece and do not be afraid to ask questions about the condition if you are buying online. Most sellers are very happy to give further details and you may even find that you build up a rapport which may well lead to an offer of a discount or further vintage finds that the seller wants to show you and has not managed to get round to listing.

On most of the well know popular online auctions the seller will have a quantified feedback, so you can check them out before payment to make you feel more secure about buying from them. 

Choose a secure method of payment such a PayPal which offers insurance on your purchase and postage reimbursement, especially when dealing with new sellers in far flung locations.

Modifying a vintage item

Many items are made from the most beautiful fabrics, too beautiful to throw away but perhaps the design is not quite right for you.  Over the decades fashion has thrown up some very ugly design fads, which many from that era would admit to feeling embarrassed about having ever worn.

Some die hard vintage heroes believe in the integrity of the item and will never alter it, as after all, it is a piece of history.  Others who run immediately to the dressmaker or alteration clinic can be forgiven for feeling it is impossible for them to visualize themselves in mid 70s lapels, flares or 80s jackets adorned with enormous shiny gold buttons and shoulders radiating the type of power usually witnessed on an American football pitch.

However, it is better to make adjustments to a piece and wear it rather than cast it to one side.  I have fallen in love with items that were just to small for me or far too big and have made alterations to them to make them fit. 

Obviously it is a lot easier when the item is a bigger size and the remaining material can be utilized as a trim for another matching accessory.  If the item is far too small then the only option is to make it bigger which is quite possible with vintage pieces as they have a larger seam allowance.

If the item is way too small and you love it too much to live without it then I suggest taking it apart and sourcing a material as close as possible to the original, using it as a template and remaking it in a larger size.  Any quality seamstress would be equal to the task. 

In fact many well known contemporary fashion designers commission vintage fashion hunters to source pieces that they will make a pattern from, rework and tweak ever so slightly and reenter it onto the fashion circuit again.

Green Goddess

One of the benefits of being willing to buy vintage and working with it to make it fit is that you are obviously contributing towards the life of our planet, leaving a fainter carbon footprint, creating an original style that may be admired but would prove almost impossible to replicate or imitate as it is your vision and hunting that has pulled this look together.

Admiring stares, envious glances and head to toe inquisitions, topped off by tactile fabric sampling as you twist and pivot on the imperative: ‘Where; When; How much; How old?’

‘Wow!’

That is certainly what you will hear by the time your admirers learn the truth behind your high end original; that is if you choose to share and reveal the truth. An air of mystery commands the type of respect matched only by the quality and integrity a vintage item can inspire.

Superior fabric; higher momme grade, thread count, densely woven.  All construction elements add to the overall integrity of the structure; top stitching, French seams, and hand hemming, finish is always exceptionally better in vintage than in a modern copy.

By the end of this post you will have a greater understanding and appreciation of the value and integrity that an item of vintage clothing embodies; why it has greater longevity and despite being decades old, still commands glances of admiration from the modern fashionista.

How Vintage Clothes Are Made.

The distinctive attributes which a vintage item possesses are a reflection of the age within which it was produced.  In the past an item had to be quality as it had to last longer, it was an investment. Consequently, the design was less transient and more classic than perhaps we have grown used to in our modern insatiable desire for the new. 

Once the classic design, think Dior and its distinctive nipped in waist and slightly rounded soft shoulder, is established in the consumer’s mind, the fashion house retains that image and tweak it ever so slightly to satisfy the age.  

The foundation of a successful garment is the fabric and cut; quality fabric will always catch the eye and a good cut gains the respect of the admirer.  

The pattern is laid and generous seam allowance is given which adds to the overall substance of the finished item. 

Before being put together each piece may be overlocked or laid and top stitched to a lining cut to match the pattern piece in order to give the finished product more body (especially in the case of a short fitted jacket or in any type of bodice design which will need more substance and support), the button stand, facing, collars and cuffs are interfaced and a complete final lining with facing attached is then fitted.

It is in essence two perfect garments inside and out.  How many modern equivaltives could boast the same?  

Weights or chains have been put in the hems of coats or jackets to encourage them to fall and hang smoothly, the inside facing is stitched on the edge close to the seam where it is joined to the outer piece, securing the invisibility of the lining and giving added definition to the garment. 

Ideally stitching in a vintage garment should never be obvious unless it is meant to be characteristic of the piece such as tailored top stitching on a collar and lapel, think Max Mara.   The finish of a vintage garment is incorruptible;  time shall not alter quality.

Ways Vintage Clothing Is Better Than Modern Clothes. 

The most obvious difference between modern and vintage clothing is of course glaringly obvious when you put them side by side: it is quality.  

Why Do People Like Vintage Clothes?

Everyone values individuality and the way to define yourself is through fashion which can allow you to become  a different person every day.  The problem is that unless you have exceptional amounts of money, you very often end up looking the same as everyone else who dresses on the high-street. 

Vintage clothes can help the look appear more individual and self expressive.  The fuller figure is totally compensated by quality clothing; a size 20 can look equally as good as a size 10 in quality cut clothing as long as the correct fit for size is selected.

The inner lining in a vintage garment takes any stress from the fuller figure and as a consequence the outer part of the garment flows freely.  In fact a tailored vintage piece has a the ability to flow smoothly that today time is of a premium whereas conversely in the past quality was what set one apart.  

How To Care For Vintage Clothes.

This is a very important topic; the custodian of vintage clothing has a duty to maintain and store their cherished items carefully so they maintain their brightness and body.

Firstly it is essential to check clothes for stains or sponge the inside lining which has been close to the body before hanging up after it is worn, it should ideally be covered in a cotton or linen cloth bag so the fabric can breathe whilst being protected by UV rays and dust, but if this is not possible, the plastic that the cleaners provide is a good alternative. 

I advise having a small linen bag of lavender on each hanger as it helps to repel moths who particularly relish the pure wools which many vintage items are made of.  If you do not have lavender, then bags of whole cloves will do as an alternative. 

Never use wire hangers as they can rust and ruin fabric, also a nice padded shoulder on a hanger can help to support the shoulders of your vintage.   Keep rotating the items in your wardrobe and shake the clothes well on the hangers just to ensure there are no moths making their home in them.

It is wiser to dry-clean items as the texture on silk and some wools can be compromised by handwashing and the results can be very disappointing.  Be mindful of fabrics that are richly embellished with beads or embroidery as these really need to be laid flat rather than left hanging in a wardrobe as the weight of the whole item can prove too much for shoulder seams and cause fraying.  

Keep an eye on the maintenance and condition of your clothes, never leave loose buttons hanging on by a thread, remember this is a vintage item which means that it may well be very difficult to find a replacement should one button go missing.  It is much wiser to restitch loose buttons or fasteners as soon as possible. 

When a vintage piece is bought, it is accompanied by a history and deserves our respect and care.