Vintage watches are worth the investment; the initial impact of paying full retail price is absorbed by the first owner, leaving subsequent owners paying a fraction of the actual cost.  Bought intelligently, the right brand and model will appreciate in value and can be liquidated easily if needed. 

Why Watches?

Surely an item that spends most of its ‘time’ tucked up inside the cuff of a shirt could comfortably be considered too insignificant to bother with.  However, a true watch collector understands the desire to hunt out that rarer, much sought after, highly prized model. 

It seems there are three influencing factors that inspire a watch collection:

• The emotional aspect associated with seeing it on an inspirational figure.
• The status it lends to the wearer.
• The most compelling motivation though must surely be the financial return a good watch can bring.

As Seen on The Big Screen!

There is a lot of allure to owning a vintage watch associated with Hollywood royalty; just visualise Audrey Hepburn’s slender wrist encased in that breathtaking ‘Cartier Tank’ in How to Steal a Million.   Etched in the general psyche is Steve McQueen’s ‘Heuer Monaco’ worn in LeMans. What about the unmistakable Patik Philippe face which dangled tantalisingly from a watch chain in The Thomas Crown Affair and who can forget Sean Connery’s iconic Rolex Submariner in Dr No?

The combination of a glamorous film icon and the prestige associated with big screen exposure assures brand recognition which in turn drives demand and can be a guarantee of a vintage timepiece retaining a significant value. 

It’s a Status Thing!

The status associated with wearing an expensive watch is irresistible, it is such a small, seemingly insignificant possession and yet the right watch has the power to make you feel important.  The reputation of luxury watch brands such as Rolex or Patek Philippe is such that being seen wearing one gains a form of silent respect for the wearer. 

Arguably men do not have that many ways to show off their achievements or success and therefore wearing a nice watch helps the wearer to define for the rest of the world that he is accomplished in life.

You feel you are doing well if you are sporting an iconic timepiece and even if you are not in the upper echelons of society, you suspect that the success associated with wearing an iconic watch will rub off on you.   Added to this is the comfort of knowing that should lean times ever descend, a watch with a healthy muscular liquidity profile can be sold quickly for cash should it ever be necessary. 

Daytona Time!

In October 2017 the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, also playfully known as the ‘Paul Newman’ Cosmograph Daytona, reached a never before achieved final auction price of a staggering $17,752,500.

Pre-sale estimates of $1 million had been predicted.  However, the association with Mr Newman, who had a prolific motoring and acting career and who was frequently photographed wearing the famous timepiece carried the bidding to a crescendo on the night of the auction. 

There was so much interest in this auction entry, not just from watch collectors but also movie buffs, motor enthusiasts and Newman fans, and as a consequence the auction price just soared.  Since then the value of certain early editions of the Rolex Daytona have increased rapidly.

A Record Breaking Time Piece

At $31 million, the most expensive watch ever sold to date is the Patek Philippe ‘Grandmaster Chime’.   Boasting 20 complications, which are devices not associated with time telling, and a dial that can be reversed at will from a salmon pink hue to a sleek black face, it is unique of its kind and as a consequence only likely to climb in value. This watch, although not vintage, is an example of what your watch checklist should incorporate:

• Complication technology and complexity
• Number of complications
• Impressive design and aesthetic
• Scarcity or rarity
• Provenance and history
• Being unrestored and in original mint condition

What to look out for

Before making a vintage watch purchase it is advisable to consider the rarity, authenticity and condition of the time piece.  Do plenty of research beforehand or consult an expert who will advise you to be informed about:

• Edition production run or quantity in a range
• Serial number
• The quality, finish and condition
• Accuracy of the movement

As you might expect, the rarer the watch model, the greater the demand and as a consequence, the greater the probability of an increase in value over time.  The vintage watch buyer needs to do the research and find out if the watch was a special edition and how many there are on the market as this will impact the value. 

The brand model, serial number, typically located on the back of a watch, inside the case or between lugs, is an important consideration as it will tell you when the timepiece was made and can often reveal who it was registered to when bought originally.  Unique serial numbers and letters record information that can be used to prove authenticity.

Along with the serial number, the quality of the movement needs to be correct, any replacement or updated cogs or any part of the movement will detract from the final value.  The condition of a watch dial in particular is important; in reality nearly 80 percent of a vintage watch’s value is in its dial where the markings should be impeccable.

Use Common Sense

Watches are among the top five most counterfeit goods on the market with over 40 million fakes being made each year.   A mistake when making a luxury watch purchase can be costly.

It is important to establish that every part of a vintage watch is original and genuine and has not been replaced by new versions of old parts or by other maker’s parts.   The movement should be faultless and fully functioning, however only a specialist watch maker can make this assessment but it pays to make the effort to find out. 

One of the key issues when contemplating purchasing a vintage watch involves the condition of a piece, examine and consider the watch in detail and pay particular attention to the dial, its color and any letter markings it may have as these are details that a savvy watch collector is particular about, as are dings, scratches or irregular markings, which can affect the overall value.   

It is all too easy to allow yourself to get carried away by the excitement of the moment, there can be a great deal of stress when you are buying a watch of this value but you have to be very careful to keep a clear head and use common sense.  Take your time, ask plenty of questions about the service history and movement of your pre-owned watch and keep checking up on the information that you are given by the seller. 

If you instinctively feel the deal is too good to be true, then listen to your instincts.

It is advisable to buy a vintage watch from a reputable seller with a service warranty and a guarantee.

A Timely Investment

That such a small timepiece should be worth hundreds or millions of dollars is amazing but the fact is that if there is a limited number of models, or indeed if there is only one timepiece circulating the market and it is so rare that it is never going to be made again, then it will command a high value.

After a short period of really studying the vintage watch market it becomes clear that in reality the brand name and model of a timepiece dictates the likelihood of an appreciation in value.  Exceptions to this rule include the Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe which nearly always appreciates in value from new, with a price entry level of approximately $19,000 and limited annual production, this brand is recession proof. 

Investment watches, such as the Patek Philippe brand, hold or in most cases increase in value from new and as a consequence offer the certainty of a financial return.  Produced annually, in limited numbers and boasting an extensive waiting list for specific designs, the Patek Philippe brand sells consistently whereas by contrast, other watch brands will drop in value the instant you take them out of the shop. 

Rolex too, a household name and well known for holding its value from new, is a safe investment and bought cleverly will make a return on your initial purchase. 

Other well-known brands can unfortunately lose between 40 to 50% in value after being purchased from new in the first year which makes these watches a solid second hand purchase if you want a good quality watch and do not want to pay the asking price from new. 

The benefit of buying a second hand luxury watch is that you have and enjoy the quality, luxury and status of a luxury timepiece without having to endure the pain of paying the original full retail cost. 

Does a second hand or vintage watch appreciate in value?  Clearly the watch brand is an important consideration but so to is the condition; if a quality vintage timepiece is maintained and holds a continuous record of a full service history, can prove its ownership from new, and is in immaculate vintage condition, then it is quite likely to make a return on investment.  Rarity too can play an important role in enhancing the value of a vintage watch. 

If you follow your heart and purchase because you cannot visualise life without this classic timepiece, you will not make a mistake,  and in the unlikely event of your ticking investment not increasing in value, at least you have the comfort of knowing that you adore it. 

Vintage Watch Checklist

The following considerations will impact the value of a watch:

• Rarity
• Authenticity
• Condition
• How many are there?
• Was it a Special edition?
• Quality and finishing which sometimes doubles the value. 

Clothes make a man because they have the ability to improve his appearance,  image and even credentials.  The right clothes can enhance a man’s positivity and confidence, serve as a protection, disguise, or even inspiration. Looking magnificent harnesses feelings of achievement that inspire success. 

Invest In The Man You Want To Be

One of the great joys in life is shopping but I am not entirely sure most men would agree.  However, I really believe there is not a man alive who does not love how he looks in new, well chosen clothes.  Therefore, in order to look the part, a certain amount of retail exposure is required but is it really necessary to go to all the trouble of trying things on and searching through rails of garments?

Dressing well is a skill which can be acquired but this takes an investment of time, energy and a certain amount of enthusiasm. In order to hone this skill, the apprentice sartorial specialist must be willing to learn, explore and most importantly make the odd fashion faux pas, as this is part of the initiation into the fraternity of style.

This hard work and dedication is always rewarded and the earlier experimentation begins, the better; some individuals can take a long time to learn about their particular style whereas others take to dressing like a fish to water. 

A really good piece of advice is to take some shots of yourself in the various designs and looks that you feel attracted to.  Lay these shots out alongside each other and make comparisons, be objective and honest in your criticism, let yourself be informed and the result will be a really good beginning of your own personal style. 

Do not be afraid to experiment, if you like it and it feels right then go for it.  Are you thinking of Cary Grant in his fine silk cashmere sweater, baggy chinos held together with a loosely rolled silk scarf, in place of a traditional leather belt.  Do you remember how elegantly he rocked those moccasins without wearing any socks?  Who would have said that this look would work and yet it does, it has such an elegant refined quality worth emulating. 

All The World’s A Stage

According to Mr William Shakespeare: ‘the apparel oft proclaims the man’, in fact our contemporary notion, of a man’s identity being defined by what he wears, is not a new one.  During the 16th century what you wore was such a potent indication of your wealth and social status that it was considered an essential element in defining a person’s class.

Clothes are vastly more affordable today but what a person decides to wear does nevertheless reveal a lot about their personality and can, whether it be for the good or ill, define an individual.  Clearly image can be enhanced or damaged so readily by what we wear that it is worth taking the time to consider this before we allow ourselves to be characterized.

The way we dress speaks volumes to the world; we can say we feel a little glum today as we shuffle along in our baggy jeans and hoodie or on the other hand present an energetic vibrant front in our fresh muscle bound T and slim-fit blues or reveal a dynamic originality by reaching for a smooth supple leather biker jacket, soft cashmere neck scarf, and rolled up chinos.  

The savvy dresser may simply turn to the polished elegance which can only be found in a finely tailored suit because in the immortal words of ZZ Top we are all ‘…crazy ‘bout a sharp-dressed man’.  When you put an effort into your appearance the world treats you differently;  you are given more respect and dignity which bodes well for thinking carefully about how you present yourself.  Dressing well and creating an image which you feel comfortably defines your individuality becomes easier with practice, it is liberating, not to mention useful and is definitely worth capitalizing on.

Doors Open Up For A Sharp Dressed Man

Everybody wants to be seen talking to the best dressed guy on the street, in the room or at a nightclub.  This is the man who has an air of success and distinction, the one whom we all agree is going places or has perhaps already arrived.  The key to success involves maintaining this façade which requires dedication and commitment.  

The image once contrived is like a mask and should never be let slip as it forms a public perception of the individual and deviation may induce suggestions of doubt.  

All this sounds a little taxing and the difficulty is of course sustaining motivation, however, there are many advantages to maintaining this public face: trust, recognition, enhanced reputation, respect and inclusion.   Once the individual begins on this path of identification with image it becomes clear that large amounts of discipline and dedication are required in the initial stages.  After a period of time it all becomes much easier as habits and routines form. 

Soon you become aware of the benefits of dressing in a distinctive style and begin to appreciate the knowledge of knowing what to wear and how to wear it, at this point you have ownership of your persona and can take control of how others perceive you.  

Devoted To The Image

The suit, though not the solution to every occasion, is traditionally a firm favorite when one wants to make a serious impact.  Conspicuous and yet subtle, it is no coincidence that the suit became firmly associated with success; it provided a façade behind which true identity is hidden and its uniformity assured its acceptance and confirmed it as a shape synonymous with success.   

In his self help guide Dress for Success, John T MolloRhonda Byrne’s The Secret (links to Amazon.com) where it is recommended you imagine your best future, whether that be sitting behind the wheel of a Ferrari or sitting on your terrace in Monaco.  

Manifesting a new reality using visualization can truly support the individual in search of an identity with which to connect and embrace.  Creating a mood board using images, colors and styles which are inspiring can really help to clarify and hone individual style by anchoring it to particular looks the wearer finds attractive.

It Is All In The Eye

Most of us are heavily influenced by the visual and it is said that we make up our mind about an individual in the first three seconds of meeting them.  

Clothing, be it a simple, relaxed, finely knit sweater, cleverly emblazoned sweatshirt or conservative suit, can act as a vehicle of self promotion for the wearer, nonetheless, one point remains clear in all research conclusions; quality counts.  In other words the great general public are perfectly capable of distinguishing between a refined quality item of clothing and a mass-produced, off-the-rack garment and will evaluate the wearer based on what they perceive them to be wearing.

In research, conducted by Professor Pine, the general public were asked for their instant response to two separate images of a man, whose face was hidden.  It became clear that although the man’s face was not shown and the suits were almost identical, the public could determine which image they felt made the greatest impression: the tailored suit in preference to the ready-made suit was the outright choice.  The findings of the test confirmed for Professor Pine ‘…that people are influenced by subtle features, such as the cut of a suit, which has a powerful impact on judgements of personality and professional status.’

Ask yourself why any diplomat, leader or businessman arrives wearing a suit for briefings, interviews and meetings.  These leaders have found that a conservative, invariably navy, well tailored suit speaks to the public and confirms for them that their trust is well placed and they, in being entrusted with the mantle of responsibility, are anxious to fulfill expectations.  The suit has the capacity of being able to communicate messages of authenticity, competence and dependability and it ensures that the wearer presents every appearance of being able to execute their role successfully.

The individual and in this case the man, who does not carefully consider the image he projects to the world is doing himself a disservice.  Although admittedly all this may sound superficial, visual communication is commonly used in the animal kingdom, to ward off intruders and of course to impress, and we human animals share the same instincts, albeit in bespoke suits! 

Buy vintage at live or online auction sites -eBay, Etsy or from individuals on Instagram. Charity stores, Markets, house clearance or commission a vintage fashion hunter to source a piece on your behalf.

The advantage of many online sites is that there are usually a variety of pictures and detailed descriptions of each item and therefore you have the surety of making an informed decision about a prospective purchase. 

The Best Online Sites

Some sites such as eBay have sellers who give a complete history of the item which is fascinating in itself and many are estate finds, as they are called in America, and these are usually low cost items because the sellers are often unaware of the true value of their vintage piece.

eBay has a large selection of sellers who are interested in a particular period of fashion history and if you follow them online you will be able to select what you want from that particular era.

Other sellers just love the romance and quality of items from the past, they might sell everything from vintage Mickey Mouse comics to coins and stamps. However, somewhere in between there will be a vintage dress or bag waiting to be snapped up.

The following are some vintage fashion ebay sellers:

• lucyloveslove_vintage
• sgh2274 (Victorian, Edwardian and 40s fashion)
• vintageviking1 (beautiful vintage dresses here)
• jemierose (a mixture of all eras)
• onlinevintageshowroom
• jamiexmas
• applebyvintage

Etsy is another excellent site which I have found to be very user friendly and the vintage pieces here are usually better photographed than on eBay and a little easier to examine online. 

In the past I have found Etsy to be reasonably priced overall and sellers are happy to communicate and open to buyers approaching them for a better price. As with any other online vendor it is very important to read the reviews and feedback of a seller before you take the plunge.

Key Search Vocabulary

Key search words are important when hunting vintage fashion. Buzz words such as retro will bring up predominantly modern cheap imported copies of original styles.

However, using the key word vintage before the items or the period you are hunting will bring up a vast selection of fine quality finds. For example entering key words such as vintage dress, vintage 1940s dress, or entering for example ‘1940s’ in the search box and refining search to ‘clothing’, not forgetting to launch the search as ‘worldwide’ will open a vast array to browse from.

Online Site Bargains

I have found featured charity shops on eBay to be very fruitful. In fact if you keep a close eye on these sites you can source real bargains.

Communication is important when dealing with these sellers. If you see something that you like, get in touch with the shop. These featured charities are only interested in getting the cash in, there is no emotional investment in the item which is good news for the buyer.

Be decisive and strike early in the listing before other hunters pounce on your find and take you into a bidding war, ramping up the price.

In my experience some sellers that list items are badly informed about the true value of an item and often dream up a price which sounds good to them but is in fact excessive or conversely if you are lucky undervalued.

Then there are the listings of job lots which contain predominately vintage items; these can be quite fruitful when it comes to accessories but when it comes to clothes, it is less successful.

Social Media

Instagram is a great location to source those vintage sellers at home and abroad.

It may well be an advantage to you to make contact with these online entrepreneurs to help them get to know your style so they can keep an eye out for finds tailor made for you; It is like having your own free stylist!

This site is especially popular for sourcing high end designer bags which are always a fantastic investment. If you care for your designer bag properly it can end up earning you a return on your investment. It is well worth scouring online vintage clothing and accessories sites for high end brand names such as Gucci, Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Hermes as these always hold their value.

Always ensure that you are confident that your purchase is the genuine article. There are many ways of checking that a designer bag is original:

• serial/date code
• brand monogram/logo and location on bag
• logo embossed stamp on leather and printed quality lining
• metalware quality and branding
• grain and surface of leather which should feel dry, not oily or slippery
• immaculate stitching of equal quantity, no back and forth stitches
• detailed brand catalogues

If you do your research and check customer reviews and an online seller’s reputation, then there is every reason to shop with confidence.

Remember too that when you use PayPal you have extra insurance if the product is not what you were promised.

What to Buy

A Gucci handbag from the early 80s for 50cent, am immaculate Burberry trench coat complete with plaid wool zipped inner lining and silk neck scarf emblazoned with the brand logo, all 12 euro, new Chloe leather T-bar courts a mere 25euro, Temperley silk blouse with tags 1 euro; these are all examples of vintage fashion finds as well as some modern classics from thrift shops.

If you have a good eye, follow your instincts about the piece and do not be afraid to ask questions about the condition if you are buying online. Most sellers are very happy to give further details and you may even find that you build up a rapport which may well lead to an offer of a discount or further vintage finds that the seller wants to show you and has not managed to get round to listing.

On most of the well know popular online auctions the seller will have a quantified feedback, so you can check them out before payment to make you feel more secure about buying from them. 

Choose a secure method of payment such a PayPal which offers insurance on your purchase and postage reimbursement, especially when dealing with new sellers in far flung locations.

Modifying a vintage item

Many items are made from the most beautiful fabrics, too beautiful to throw away but perhaps the design is not quite right for you.  Over the decades fashion has thrown up some very ugly design fads, which many from that era would admit to feeling embarrassed about having ever worn.

Some die hard vintage heroes believe in the integrity of the item and will never alter it, as after all, it is a piece of history.  Others who run immediately to the dressmaker or alteration clinic can be forgiven for feeling it is impossible for them to visualize themselves in mid 70s lapels, flares or 80s jackets adorned with enormous shiny gold buttons and shoulders radiating the type of power usually witnessed on an American football pitch.

However, it is better to make adjustments to a piece and wear it rather than cast it to one side.  I have fallen in love with items that were just to small for me or far too big and have made alterations to them to make them fit. 

Obviously it is a lot easier when the item is a bigger size and the remaining material can be utilized as a trim for another matching accessory.  If the item is far too small then the only option is to make it bigger which is quite possible with vintage pieces as they have a larger seam allowance.

If the item is way too small and you love it too much to live without it then I suggest taking it apart and sourcing a material as close as possible to the original, using it as a template and remaking it in a larger size.  Any quality seamstress would be equal to the task. 

In fact many well known contemporary fashion designers commission vintage fashion hunters to source pieces that they will make a pattern from, rework and tweak ever so slightly and reenter it onto the fashion circuit again.

Green Goddess

One of the benefits of being willing to buy vintage and working with it to make it fit is that you are obviously contributing towards the life of our planet, leaving a fainter carbon footprint, creating an original style that may be admired but would prove almost impossible to replicate or imitate as it is your vision and hunting that has pulled this look together.

Admiring stares, envious glances and head to toe inquisitions, topped off by tactile fabric sampling as you twist and pivot on the imperative: ‘Where; When; How much; How old?’

‘Wow!’

That is certainly what you will hear by the time your admirers learn the truth behind your high end original; that is if you choose to share and reveal the truth. An air of mystery commands the type of respect matched only by the quality and integrity a vintage item can inspire.